World Social Forum 2009: a report for a new Hull Magazine

We'd arrived a week early with high expectations of the Forum. We'd travelled over 4000km to get there from Colombia; 5 days by bus & 5 more by Amazonian river boat sleeping amongst a tangled web of hammocks. 100,000 people were expected to descend upon the city of Belem, which lies at the confluence of the mighty river Amazon and the Atlantic ocean, to speak of their struggles and campaigns and discuss strategies to achieve a better world. 'Um outro mundo e possivel' (another world is possible) has been the forums' tag line since its birth in 2001, in southern Brazilian city of Porto Alegre. The forum rose in part as a direct challenge to The World Economic Forum which takes place in Davos, Switzerland every January, where top business leaders, politicians and economists get together to discuss how best to maintain the Capitalist status quo. The Porto Alegre declaration of 2001 states that the forum is "an open meeting place where social movements, networks, NGOs and other civil society organizations opposed to neo-liberalism and a world dominated by capital or by any form of imperialism come together to pursue their thinking, to debate ideas democratically, to formulate proposals, share their experiences freely and network for effective action. Since the first world encounter in 2001, it has taken the form of a permanent world process seeking and building alternatives to neo-liberal policies".

Things kicked off with a huge demonstration through the streets of Belem, starting at the port where the visiting Greenpeace vessel 'Arctic Sunrise' was docked. It was every bit as colourful and lively as you'd expect a Latin American demonstration to be, and when the inevitable deluge of wet season rain arrived it did nothing to dampen spirits. In fact it only served to whip the crowds into a heightened frenzy as people cheered, danced, and chanted to the sounds of samba drums whilst being soaked to the bone with lashings of cool rain.

The workshops commenced the following day with over 4,300 on offer over the duration of the week, with titles as diverse as the organizations presenting them. Would it be the 'Palestinian Grassroots anti-apartheid wall campaign: Root causes & prospects for common struggle', or the 'India Resource Centre: International Campaign against Coca Cola'? How about 'Indigenous Environmental Network: Indigenous peoples energy & climate justice' or the 'International network for the abolition of foreign military bases'. The list was endless, and it soon became apparent that it would be impossible to attend all of interest.



A strong theme this year was the importance of the Amazon basin as a source of Biodiversity and as a vital carbon sink. As a result of the 'call for indigenous peoples participation', over 3000 indigenous people were present, many from tribes based in the Amazon basin. Members of Tribes such as the Jawari wandered around painted from head to toe with traditional tribal markings, complete with colourful feathered head dress, spears and bows & arrows. Indigenous people from around the world were also represented, coming as from as far as Canada to talk about the Tar sands operations which are wrecking havoc in Northern Alberta, and from Nigeria to speak against the oil companies that are displacing and brutalizing communities across the Niger delta. Hearing these stories first hand from the people who daily face the reality of predatory corporations operating in their lands was extremely poignant. Never before have I heard such an array of stories and accounts which have painted such a vivid overall picture of the extent to which the Neo-liberal stage of Capitalism is responsible for the planetary crisis we are facing. However, it was heartening and inspiring to hear of the range of resistance world wide; the globalization of struggle.

Unfortunately however, there appears to be much room for improvement in the organization of the gathering. Things were chaotic from the beginning, when no one could give us details about accommodation, or how / who to pay for registration. The Forum was spread between The Universidad Fedral Rural da Amazonia (UFRA) and and the Universidad Fedral Do Para (UFPA). It was difficult to board the buses going inbetween the two, due to the number of people attempting to squeeze their way on. A simple shuttle bus system would have lightened the pressure from the normal bus service.
The programme of workshops had been drastically altered without amendments being made and apparently this was known even before the programmes had been distributed. We only worked this out late in the week, after many a frustrating hour finding our way to the poorly signed workshop locations only to find nothing there. We would be told one thing by one volunteer, only to be told the opposite by another, resulting in countless wild goose chases.
When attending gatherings such as this one tries to shake off the expectation of the religious punctuality championed by top-down organization, but there are limits. A few big boards detailing amendments, or volunteers with knowledge of the re-jigged workshops would have saved a lot of wasted energy.
For a forum with a strong theme on Amazonian deforestation due to soya monocultures grown for cattle feed, there was little in the way of vegetarian or vegan food. It was impossible to buy any on the UFPA campus, and most of the veggie options at UFRA were overpriced. Yet, ironically, it was all to easy to buy a can of Coca Cola. The only water available was sold in tiny overpriced plastic bottles, and all food and drink was served in disposable plastic and polystyrene cups and plates which overflowed from bins and littered the ground. Despite both the Fedral and State governments ploughing huge sums of money into the Forum, it appeared that responsible waste management had been forgotten, with no recycling facilities to be seen.

At times, looking around at the hoards of confused people walking through the scattered plastic debris in search for non-existent workshops, it was hard to imagine "another world is possible". It's a sad irony that ethical responsibilities such as these could be neglected at such a symbolic level; a gathering that is meant to epitomize this 'movement of movements'. It goes without saying that good environmental & ethical practice should be sown into the very fabric of the World Social Forum - as Ghandi once said, we should be the change we wish to see in the world.
One can only hope that these problems have been duly noted and added to the 'things to improve' list.

Overall, despite these contradictions, the Forum was a positive experience and I left feeling inspired, with a notebook full of new contacts and ideas. The Forum's strength is definitely in the sheer diversity of it's participants & the potential for bridges to be built between them, and for the strengthening of alliances united in their resistance. For me this is what the forum is about; sharing experience, inspiration, solidarity, strengthening alliances and forming strategies. I spoke enthusiastically of the Camp For Climate Action throughout the week, and people listened eagerly and expressedd interest in forming Climate Camps in their regions; as a result we may see a new camp pop up to challenge the Canadian tar sand operations. This demonstrates the importance and effectiveness of having a space created in which ideas are shared and movements furthered. Another reassuring thing was to see the sheer number of young people present. Whoever said today's youth are apathetic?

Global Capitalism is in crisis, it's indefatigable greed seeding the beginning of its own demise. And here, in Brazil, gathered the nuclei of a peoples movement, a movement with perhaps the energy, ideas and determination required to replace the current flawed system and institutions. Indeed another world is possible and it has surely never been more necessary than now.

Down the Amazon on a river boat

After buying some fruit and salad for supplies, we boarded the '11 de mayo'; a classic three-tier Amazonian river boat. By the time we arrived, the little vessel already looked packed to capacity, the middle floor consisting of a huge chaotic web of hammocks. We managed to get a recommended spot-second floor, near the front so that we were away from the sound of the engine and would recieve ample breeze to keep those winged bloodsuckers away. We tied our hammocks to the nest.
We bumped into our Irish friend Patrick, who we'd met earlier in Venezuela, and met a couple of girls from New York also on their way to the forum. The hammocks were up, and we had a crew.
After a couple of hours, we left the busy port, passing other boats straining under the weight of passenegers and freight. We were away, and once again it felt good to be on the move.
For 5 days we gently cruised down the Amazon, soaking up some amazing scenery, and experiencing the warmth and hospitality of the Brazilian people. We passed river- dwellers, fisher folk, dolphins, snakes and birds.
During certain stretches, kids from river-dwelling communitys paddled frantically towards the boat in traditional dug out canoes, approaching from all directions, emitting strange howling noises to notify us of their presence. On reaching the boat (which was travelling much faster than them and could easily have dragged them underneath and into the propellors) they attached home-made grapple hooks onto the hull so that they were being towed along. The spray from the bow wave would begin to fill the tiny vessels, so one kid would be there desperately bailing out the water, whilst the other would sell sugar cane, fruits and shrimp to the passengers onboard. Some of the kids would simply beg, making hand signals which were met by a string of plastic bags containing clothes tossed overboard. It was really fun and interesting to watch, and all onboard crowded around the edge to look down and cheer them on!
One night we got together with a group of other gringos, and Brazilians heading to the Forum, and had a jam on the top deck with guitars, bongos, singing and beat boxing. The atmosphere was electric, maybe in part due to the amazing sheet & fork lightning that light up the wide sky around us.
It took a few nights to get used to the sleeping bit. The hammocks were literally touching and criss-crossing each other, so that you were generally aware of all your neighbours' movements. Ocassionally you'd have someone clumsily squeeze between you. Sometimes they'd duck and attempt to go underneath, inevitabley head-butting your arse. Now and then a rogue foot or elbow would serve you a little wake-up jab, usually just at the point where you had finally reached the verge of slumber. We stopped at a few small ports along the way, and just when you thought the boat's population had reached it's maximum, more people boarded. And just when you thought that no new hammocks could possibly have the audacity to enter your carefully guarded and already crowded territory, one would magically appear above or below you, during the time it took to blink. Early each morning, usually at around 2am, the wind would pick up and the rainy season deluge would begin. This was the only down point of being positioned where we were; the breeze that helped us remain bite-free would also bring with it heavy lashings of rain. You'd have to jump out of the hammock, fumble at the ropes to pull down the tarpaulin covering the deck, and receive a battering by the rain in the process, all before having the chance to wake up.
I loved every minute of it! I spent lots of time reading, dozing (sleeping in the day was often more fruitful than in the night) and talking to the many great people we were sharing the experience with. The majority of people on board were obviously Brazilian, and despite the language barrier friendships were made, and laughs were had. What a warm, friendly, welcoming bunch of people!
The food was pretty lame, but we'd known it would be, and enjoyed the extras we were able to pick up along the way. Frustratingly, it was only on the last day that we realized there was a kitchen available to use on the bottom floor. I'd recommend that any Veggies, and especially Vegans, take plenty of extra food. You can ask for the meal without meat, but you'll still pay the same price of 6 Reais per meal, regardless of the fact that it's only rice, beans and salad, and should be sold for significantly less.
Finally we approached the city of Belem. The immense metropolis sprawled accross the horizon, appearing alien after 5 days of only trees as a back drop. It had been a great journey, a highlight of the trip so far, and testament to the beauty of terrestrial/aquatic travel; these are the types of experience lost to the rushed traveller of the skies. I reccomend anyone travelling in the Amazon to give it a go.
After packing away our hammocks, and a flurry of photos and fairwells with our neighbours, we were ready to enter the city.

(The trip cost roughly 200 R each, for 5 days. You must have your own Hammock, cheap ones can be bought for 10 R each, with ropes for 6 R per set, around any of the market stalls in Manaus. Haggling is normal and expected. Better and more comfortable hammocks can be bought for between 20-30 R, but are heavy, and quite large so not so suitable for the backpack.)