After buying some fruit and salad for supplies, we boarded the '11 de mayo'; a classic three-tier Amazonian river bo
at. By the time we arrived, the little vessel already looked packed to capacity, the middle floor consisting of a huge chaotic web of hammocks. We managed to get a recommended spot-second floor, near the front so that we were away from the sou
nd of the engine and would recieve ample breeze to keep those winged bloodsuckers away. We tied our hammocks to the nest.
We bumped into our Irish friend Patrick, who we'd met earlier in Venezuela, and met a couple of girls from New York also on their way to the forum. The hammocks were up, and we had a crew.
After a couple of hours, we left the busy port, passing other boats
straining under the weight of passenegers and freight. We were away, and once again it felt good to be on the move.
For 5 days we gently cruised down the Amazon, soaking up some amazing scenery, and experiencing the warmth and hospitality of the Brazilian people. We passed river- dwellers, fisher folk, dolphins, snakes and birds.
During certain stretches, kids from river-dwelling communitys paddled frantically towards the boat in traditional dug out canoes, approaching from all directions, emitting strange howling noises to notify us of their presence. On reaching the boat (which was travelling much faster than them and could easily have dragged them underneath and into the propellors) they attached home-made grapple hooks onto the hull so that they were being towed along. The spray from the bow wave would begin to fill the tiny vessels, so one kid would be there desperately bailing out the water,
whilst the other would sell 
sugar cane, fruits and shrimp to the passengers onboard. Some of the kids would simply beg, making hand signals which were met by a string of plastic bags containing clothes tossed overboard. It was really fun and interesting to watch, and all onboard crowded around the edge to look down and cheer them on!
One night we got together with a group of other gringos, and Brazilians heading to the Forum, and had a jam on the top deck with guitars, bongos, singing and beat boxing. The atmosphere was electric, maybe in part due to the amazing sheet & fork lightning that light up the wide sky around us.
It took a few nights to get used to the sleeping bit. The hammocks were literally touching and criss-crossing each other, so that you were generally aware of all your neighbours' movements. Ocassionally you'd have someone clumsily squeeze between you. Sometimes they'd duck and attempt to go underneath, inevitabley head-butting your arse. Now and then a rogue foot or elbow would serve you a little wake-up jab, usually just at the point 
where you had finally reached the verge of slumber. We stopped at a few small ports along the way, and just when you thought the boat's population had reached it's maximum, more people boarded. And just when you thought that no new hammocks could possibly have the audacity to enter your carefully guarded and already crowded territory, one would magically appear 
above or below you, during the time it took to blink. Early each morning, usually at around 2am, the wind would pick up and the rainy season deluge would begin. This was the only down point of being positioned where we were; the breeze that helped us remain bite-free would also bring with it heavy lashings of rain. You'd have to jump out of the hammock, fumble at the ropes to pull down the tarpaulin covering the deck, and receive a battering by the rain in the process, all before having the chance to wake up.
I loved every minute of it! I spent lots of time reading, dozing (sleeping in the day was often more fruitful than in the night) and talking to the many great people we were sharing the experience with. The majority of people on board were obviously Brazilian, and despite the language barrier friendships were made, and laughs were had. What a warm, friendly, welcoming bunch of people!
The food was pretty lame, but we'd known it would be, and enjoyed the extras we were able to pick up along the way. Frustratingly, it was only on the last day that we realized there was a kitchen available to use on the bottom floor. I'd recommend that any Veggies, and especially Vegans, take plenty of extra food. You can ask for the meal without meat, but you'll still pay the same price of 6 Reais per meal, regardless of the fact that it's only rice, beans and salad, and should be sold for significantly less.
Finally we approached the city 
of Belem. The immense metropolis sprawled accross the horizon, appearing alien after 5 days of only trees as a back drop. It had been a great journey, a highlight of the trip so far, and testament to the beauty of terrestrial/aquatic travel; these are the types of experience lost to the rushed traveller of the skies. I reccomend anyone travelling in the Amazon to give it a go.
After packing away our hammocks, and a flurry of photos and fairwells with our neighbours, we were ready to enter the city.
(The trip cost roughly 200 R each, for 5 days. You must have your own Hammock, cheap ones can be bought for 10 R each, with ropes for 6 R per set, around any of the market stalls in Manaus. Haggling is normal and expected. Better and more comfortable hammocks can be bought for between 20-30 R, but are heavy, and quite large so not so suitable for the backpack.)
at. By the time we arrived, the little vessel already looked packed to capacity, the middle floor consisting of a huge chaotic web of hammocks. We managed to get a recommended spot-second floor, near the front so that we were away from the sou
nd of the engine and would recieve ample breeze to keep those winged bloodsuckers away. We tied our hammocks to the nest.We bumped into our Irish friend Patrick, who we'd met earlier in Venezuela, and met a couple of girls from New York also on their way to the forum. The hammocks were up, and we had a crew.
After a couple of hours, we left the busy port, passing other boats
straining under the weight of passenegers and freight. We were away, and once again it felt good to be on the move.For 5 days we gently cruised down the Amazon, soaking up some amazing scenery, and experiencing the warmth and hospitality of the Brazilian people. We passed river- dwellers, fisher folk, dolphins, snakes and birds.
During certain stretches, kids from river-dwelling communitys paddled frantically towards the boat in traditional dug out canoes, approaching from all directions, emitting strange howling noises to notify us of their presence. On reaching the boat (which was travelling much faster than them and could easily have dragged them underneath and into the propellors) they attached home-made grapple hooks onto the hull so that they were being towed along. The spray from the bow wave would begin to fill the tiny vessels, so one kid would be there desperately bailing out the water,
whilst the other would sell 
sugar cane, fruits and shrimp to the passengers onboard. Some of the kids would simply beg, making hand signals which were met by a string of plastic bags containing clothes tossed overboard. It was really fun and interesting to watch, and all onboard crowded around the edge to look down and cheer them on!One night we got together with a group of other gringos, and Brazilians heading to the Forum, and had a jam on the top deck with guitars, bongos, singing and beat boxing. The atmosphere was electric, maybe in part due to the amazing sheet & fork lightning that light up the wide sky around us.
It took a few nights to get used to the sleeping bit. The hammocks were literally touching and criss-crossing each other, so that you were generally aware of all your neighbours' movements. Ocassionally you'd have someone clumsily squeeze between you. Sometimes they'd duck and attempt to go underneath, inevitabley head-butting your arse. Now and then a rogue foot or elbow would serve you a little wake-up jab, usually just at the point 
where you had finally reached the verge of slumber. We stopped at a few small ports along the way, and just when you thought the boat's population had reached it's maximum, more people boarded. And just when you thought that no new hammocks could possibly have the audacity to enter your carefully guarded and already crowded territory, one would magically appear 
above or below you, during the time it took to blink. Early each morning, usually at around 2am, the wind would pick up and the rainy season deluge would begin. This was the only down point of being positioned where we were; the breeze that helped us remain bite-free would also bring with it heavy lashings of rain. You'd have to jump out of the hammock, fumble at the ropes to pull down the tarpaulin covering the deck, and receive a battering by the rain in the process, all before having the chance to wake up.I loved every minute of it! I spent lots of time reading, dozing (sleeping in the day was often more fruitful than in the night) and talking to the many great people we were sharing the experience with. The majority of people on board were obviously Brazilian, and despite the language barrier friendships were made, and laughs were had. What a warm, friendly, welcoming bunch of people!
The food was pretty lame, but we'd known it would be, and enjoyed the extras we were able to pick up along the way. Frustratingly, it was only on the last day that we realized there was a kitchen available to use on the bottom floor. I'd recommend that any Veggies, and especially Vegans, take plenty of extra food. You can ask for the meal without meat, but you'll still pay the same price of 6 Reais per meal, regardless of the fact that it's only rice, beans and salad, and should be sold for significantly less.
Finally we approached the city 
of Belem. The immense metropolis sprawled accross the horizon, appearing alien after 5 days of only trees as a back drop. It had been a great journey, a highlight of the trip so far, and testament to the beauty of terrestrial/aquatic travel; these are the types of experience lost to the rushed traveller of the skies. I reccomend anyone travelling in the Amazon to give it a go.After packing away our hammocks, and a flurry of photos and fairwells with our neighbours, we were ready to enter the city.
(The trip cost roughly 200 R each, for 5 days. You must have your own Hammock, cheap ones can be bought for 10 R each, with ropes for 6 R per set, around any of the market stalls in Manaus. Haggling is normal and expected. Better and more comfortable hammocks can be bought for between 20-30 R, but are heavy, and quite large so not so suitable for the backpack.)
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